Moominmamma worked all afternoon. A little before dark she had the food cooked for Christmas, and served in small bowls around the fir tree. There was juice and yoghurt and blueberry pie and eggnog and other things the Moomin family liked.

The Fir Tree, Tove Jansson

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Usually, by three days before Christmas, my kitchen is filled with the chutneys, jams, cordials, and preserves I’ve made in the preceding months. I would normally have baked row upon row of gingerbread or pepparkakor, stacking them up in jars to give as gifts. There would be piles of crystallised ginger, and boxes of fat, squashy Turkish Delight. Christmas has always been, without question, my favourite time of year. But this year, having been on a book tour for two months, my kitchen cupboard has remained empty.

This year, more than any other, my favourite seasonal books are sustaining me, in the absence of all the rituals that usually do. We see, in The Fir Tree, the strangeness of ritual and of tradition, through the eyes of the Moomins. The family, who normally spend winter in hibernation, are woken and told that Christmas is coming. Unaware of what Christmas may be, and flummoxed by a world deep in snow, the Moomins prepare as if readying themselves to appease a vengeful God. Their preparations are frantic and anxious, but this eventually fades to calm, lit candles and a decorated tree.

My favourite Christmas rituals are still to come. Tomorrow, I travel back to my adopted home, to spend a week with my beloved family. We’ll dress the tree and I’ll find time to bake some biscuits. We’ll celebrate with a smörgåsbord on Christmas Eve, and a pudding on Christmas Day. And as I write, beside me sits a glass of eggnog; a festive ritual that is new to me. It has always seemed odd and unappealing, poured out of cartons in American sitcoms. But the homemade version is a different beast entirely: rich, boozy, creamy and lightened by the addition of beaten egg whites. Best enjoyed in small portions, it sits between a dessert and a cocktail, which certainly seems entirely seasonally appropriate. I’ll be making it yearly from now on.

Eggnog

Makes 4 small glasses

Ingredients
225ml whole milk
75ml cream
1/4tsp ground mace
1/2tsp ground nutmeg
1/2tsp ground cinnamon
2 eggs
1tbsp caster sugar
100ml bourbon
Grating fresh nutmeg

Equipment
Small saucepan
Whisk
Mixing bowl
Spatula
Cocktail glasses

1. Bring the milk, cream, mace, nutmeg and cinnamon to a slow simmer over a low heat. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar for a couple of minutes in a bowl, until very pale and forming thick ribbons when dropped from the whisk into the bowl.

2. Pour the simmering milk over the yolks, whisking constantly to prevent them scrambling, and then add the bourbon. Cover and transfer to the fridge for 24 hours (or up to three days) to allow the flavours to develop. Don’t forget to hold onto the egg whites - you’ll need them too.

3. When you’re ready to serve, beat the egg whites to soft peaks. Carefully fold into the eggnog mixture, then pour into glasses. Top with freshly grated nutmeg and serve immediately.